Chef Evan’s Chawanmushi

Feature Image by Michelle Hennessey

Embark on a gastronomic journey with Chef Evan’s Chawanmushi, a dish that encapsulates the essence of the sea and the art of preservation. This Japanese savory custard, infused with the unique flavor of sea truffles harvested from the North Atlantic, is a testament to the chef’s dedication to sourcing and preserving local ingredients. The recipe, a blend of traditional Japanese techniques and New England’s bountiful sea, offers a delightful exploration of textures and flavors.

The Chawanmushi is not just a dish; it’s a story of time and place, where each ingredient narrates its journey from the ocean’s depths to your plate. The sea truffles, a hidden gem of the marine world, are carefully dehydrated and steeped in a masterful dashi broth, creating an earthy and aromatic base. The addition of ginger dashi and peanut cream adds layers of complexity, making each spoonful a discovery of new tastes.

This recipe is more than a culinary creation; it celebrates sustainable practices and a deep respect for the natural world. It’s a reminder of the importance of preserving our food heritage and the joy of discovering new flavors. As you prepare this dish, you’re not just cooking; you’re participating in a ritual that honors the sea, the land, and the hands that nurture them.

So, gather your ingredients, and let’s dive into the world of Chawanmushi, where every bite is an adventure and every flavor tells a story. This dish is a perfect representation of edible MAINE’s ethos – a blend of local traditions, innovative cooking, and a deep appreciation for the natural bounty of New England.

 

Print Recipe

Makes

14 1-oz servings

Ingredients

For the Master Dashi:

  • 1 gal. Water
  • 4 oz. Kombu
  • 1.5 oz. Dried porcini
  • 3.5 oz. Black garlic
  • 2 Tbl. Bonito
  • 2 tsp. Tamari

For the Sea Truffle Dashi:

  • 3.5 tsp. Dry sea truffle
  • .5 cup shirodashi
  • .75 tsp. White truffle oil
  • 4.25 cups Master dashi recipe from above
  • 2 tsp. Banyuls vinegar

For the Ginger Dashi:

  • 7 ⅔ cups Master dashi recipe from above
  • 4 Tbl. Peeled/sliced ginger
  • 2 each Star anise

For the Peanut Cream:

  • 3.5 cups Toasted peanuts
  • 2.5 cups Milk
  • 1.5 cups Heavy Cream
  • .5 cup Shio Koji
  • 2 each Star anise

For the Garnish:

  • Toasted peanuts
  • Puffed wild rice

Instructions

For the Master Dashi:

  • Combine kombu, porcini, black garlic, and water in rondeau and heat on high until 82C (180F)
  • Remove rondeau from heat and add bonito and season with tamari
  • Cover with plastic wrap and let cool to room temp. pass through chinois.
  • Reserve

For the Sea Truffle Dashi:

  • Place all ingredients EXCEPT dry sea truffle in saucepan
  • Bring to boil then remove from heat. Add dry sea truffle and cover with plastic wrap.
  • Steep for 30 minutes
  • Strain, season, cool

For the Ginger Dashi:

  • Place all ingredients in saucepan
  • Heat on induction heat 12 for 20 minutes
  • Remove pan and cover with plastic wrap, steep for 1 hour
  • Strain, season, cool and reserve

For the Peanut Cream:

  • Place all ingredients in saucepan and bring to a simmer
  • Lower heat and cook for 15 minutes
  • Transfer to Vitamix and puree to pulverize the peanut. Do not make full puree
  • Immediately strain and cool

To assemble:

  • Mix 1 ½ cups sea truffle dashi base with 2 whole eggs and 2 egg yolks, using either chop sticks or kitchen tweezers. Strain the mix through a chinois.
  • Portion 1 fluid ounce per chawanmushi cup
  • Place a square of plastic wrap on the top of the cup and replace the lid.
  • Place the perforated hotel pan inside the lip of the circulator and bring the water level to about 1” below the bottom of the perforated pan.
  • Bring water temperature to 194F
  • Place filled chawanmushi cups inside the perforated pan and place the lid of the circulator on top
  • Steam for 25 minutes, or until all are set. This may be done in rounds.
  • In a sauce pan, combine ½ cup ginger dashi and 1/3 cup peanut cream, bring to a simmer
  • Remove the chawanmushi cups from the steamer and remove the plastic wrap
  • Garnish with 1 tbl. of toasted peanuts, and 1 tbl. puffed wild rice on top of the custard
  • Using the immersion hand blender, froth the peanut/ginger sauce
  • Scoop the froth and spoon it over the custard and garnish
  • Replace the lid, and serve.

About the author

Current Print Issue