Even I, devoted personally and professionally to the art of good living through food, can get bogged down in the monotony of family dinner, day in and day out. Though it is among my greatest joys to feed my family, sometimes I need a change of scenery to break up the repeated choreography of cooking, serving, pleading with my small children, losing, arguing about dessert, slightly winning, washing dishes, and ultimately surviving another day. To break this cycle, I gather up the troops and head outside for a picnic—a meal unbound by walls or expectations.
In our town of Freeport, we’ve got Winslow Park and Wolfe’s Neck to escape to. I can patiently set out our spread while the boys revel in the glory of being kids, free in nature. I build my outdoor meals with a buffet-like menu, allowing everyone to eat and return as they please. A picnic can revive this flailing parent’s enthusiasm for mealtime when planned with care.
In our house, seafood is often on the menu, and I like to carry that tradition into our picnic planning. When most people think of picnics, they envision sandwiches, pasta salads, deli meats, and fruit salad. Seafood often doesn’t factor in—perhaps because of our general unfamiliarity with chilled seafood dishes or those prepped ahead. But there is a glorious repertoire of both classic and creative seafood dishes that can be made in advance, many of which improve with a bit of time.
In his Fish Cookery, the late, great James Beard includes dozens upon dozens of such dishes—proof that we’ve lost favor for what was once celebrated. Now, I’m not talking about jelly molds or poached salmon in aspic—curiosities of culinary eras past. Instead, poached seafood, such as halibut or the gently flaked hake, is cooked in a seasoned broth and left to chill in that liquid, allowing time for flavors to marry and mature. The next day, when drained and patted dry, the yielding texture of the gently cooked fillet pairs perfectly with brightly flavored summer sauces. Among my favorites is the timeless Green Goddess dressing—what I consider one of society’s most significant culinary achievements.
Smoked salmon, the cold cut of the seafood world, also plays well at a picnic. It works as a straight stand-in for ham or roast beef in just about any sandwich or charcuterie spread. But it also offers an opportunity for culinary creativity beyond the usual lox and schmear. One of my favorites is layering luscious slices of house-cured and smoked salmon over a goat cheese aioli slathered onto toasted ciabatta, with thick slices of cool tomato on top—all served open-face. The textural contrasts are sublime: the cool burst of tomato, the smoky aroma, the richness of the fish, and the unexpected tang of goat cheese, all supported by the crunch of the toasted bread. It’s a bite that feels both luxurious and refreshing—perfect for the season.
Another way to think about these dishes is as elevated lunches for the office as an alternative to the usual desk lunch rut. Most of us have encountered a “no fish in the microwave” rule at some point (an edict I reject—because anything microwaved broadcasts itself proudly, so why not fish too?). But seafood, being among the healthiest foods, is a fantastic way to refuel, and dishes like these lift you up rather than leaving you prone to the dreaded afternoon slump.
Whatever your destination, an added benefit of these dishes is that preparing them beforehand gives you something to look forward to. I encourage you to lean into that aspect of meal prep—let the excitement of what’s ahead add to the pleasure of cooking. So this summer, get out to the seaside and take some seafood with you.
