There is a world within the hospitality industry where a dynamic landscape of chefs embark on journeys of self-discovery by proxy and reinvention by moxie. One such story is that of a seasoned chef with over 40 years of experience, having navigated every role from dishwasher to executive chef to restaurant owner. Krista Kern Desjarlais’ career has unfolded in unexpected but determined ways, leading her to be part of opening teams for 13 major restaurants across notable locations like New York City, Connecticut, Aspen, Las Vegas, Boston, and Maine.
She has been recognized by prestigious awards associations, including several semifinalist placements for a James Beard Award, in addition to being titled Best Chef Northeast. Conde Nast Magazine recognized her restaurant, Bresca, as one of the Top 100 Best New Restaurants in the World, and her work has been included in Eater’s cookbook 100 Essential Restaurant Recipes.
I sat down with Desjarlais to chat about her diverse culinary experiences, the challenges she’s faced, and the inspiring evolution of her career. Without a doubt, she is the epitome of hospitality—and now food allergy expertise and excellence.
Desjarlais’ culinary career is a testament to the unpredictability and resilience required to achieve success within the demanding hospitality industry. As she admits, “staying in the industry is often more challenging than entering it.”
She initially envisioned a career in academia—however, her exposure to the culinary world during high school and college, where she worked as a short-order cook and for various caterers, set the stage for a different path.
Her trajectory shifted significantly during her graduate school years when she delved into fine dining at a small establishment in Maine. This experience changed her perspective and set her on a path that saw her rise through the ranks from line cook to pastry chef, then to sous chef. Eventually she was running her own restaurant at the age of 38 in Las Vegas.
Vegas, known for its vibrant food scene, demanded not only culinary excellence but also a deep understanding of business dynamics to stand out amid fierce competition. Her years there were marked by hard work, international travel, and exposure to global cuisines, thus providing a well-rounded foundation for her future endeavors.
She recalls being vetted for the position where she, the only woman competing, had to make a five-course meal that would wow the board made up of 10 men. “It was something out of Goodfellas,” she says with a laugh. “It was really intense, but they loved the meal and I got along with them great.”
Reflecting on the challenges faced by women in the industry, Desjarlais acknowledges the progress made by all women but emphasizes the need for continued advocacy on equal pay and opportunities. She deeply believes in supporting fellow women in the industry. “If you show up and love what you do, how can you go wrong? Your gender doesn’t matter,” she says. “If I rise to the top, it’s going to be solely based on my merit, not on gender.”
But of course, as women we have certain responsibilities that demand balance and attention—like children and life outside of work. After her time in Vegas, Desjarlais returned to Maine with a newfound desire to open her own restaurant. She found a space and opened Bresca, which enjoyed seven successful years. However, the relentless pace took a toll on her work-life balance, prompting her to close the restaurant at its peak and shift focus.
Desjarlais went on to unveil The Purple House in North Yarmouth, a wood-fired bakery that quickly gained national acclaim. Bon Appetit named it one of the country’s top 50 best new restaurants, highlighting her Montreal-style bagels as the best in the nation. Her culinary prowess continued to shine, earning James Beard Best Chef Northeast semifinalist nods in 2018 and 2019 and finalist in 2020. But being around and working with flour began to illuminate some issues for Desjarlais, who discovered her own gluten allergy and a need to pivot her business.
As of press time, The Purple House is set to reopen in spring 2024, and Desjarlais is redefining the dining experience on offer with a reservation-only prix fixe lunch service. Her personal experience with gluten, and more recent lactose intolerance, became driving forces in creating a safe and inclusive space at The Purple House. The commitment to ensuring the safety and comfort of guests with food allergies became a cornerstone of her culinary philosophy. She claims that “holding the vision” is both the toughest part and the best part of owning any hospitality establishment.
When opening Bresca & The Honeybee at Outlet Beach in New Gloucester, known for its award-winning (and allergy-safe) ice cream, training her staff to be knowledgeable, empathetic, and communicative about food allergies was essential. Desjarlais stressed the importance of understanding the concerns of guests with dietary restrictions and creating an environment where questions are welcomed and addressed with care.
Her ice cream at Outlet Beach gained regional recognition, featured in publications like Yankee Magazine and The Washington Post. Rachael Ray Magazine showcased her ice cream as well, solidifying her reputation as “a master of frozen delights.”
Remarkably, though Desjarlais has garnered many accolades and awards throughout her career, she achieved them all without actively seeking them or employing a public relations team. Her success, she emphasizes, is “rooted in the dedication of my team and their collective commitment to delivering excellence in every culinary endeavor.”
Nevertheless, for Desjarlais, success is an ongoing journey marked by personal and professional achievements. Of course, part of that has been mentorship, which has played a pivotal role in shaping her career—with early influences from chefs like Elizabeth DeFranco, Jacques Torres, and Jim Perillo contributing to her culinary foundation. Their guidance and examples instilled in her a strong work ethic, clarity of vision, and business acumen.
As Desjarlais continues to evolve in creating her allergy-safe dining experiences, she remains focused on her desire to reinvent foods and sweets that those with allergies would otherwise never get to enjoy. She is determined to navigate the next phase of her career as fully gluten- and dairy-free, including vegan offerings. Her commitment to excellence, resilience, and providing safe culinary spaces for her patrons continues to inspire those of us who one day dream of opening up our own public safe haven.
My biggest takeaway is that Desjarlais’ impact extends beyond the plate. She is creating a legacy built on passion for true hospitality, inclusivity through advocacy for food allergies, and definite divine deliciousness.
