Tucked between the Fore River shipping lane and South Portland’s well-traveled Broadway thoroughfare sits the quiet neighborhood called Knightville.
Originally nicknamed after 19th century boat builder Thomas Knight, this part of the city was reborn in 1997, the year the Casco Bay Bridge opened. The overpass diverted cars headed into and out of Portland off Ocean Street, the main street by which commuters accessed the old Million Dollar Bridge. With traffic swept aside, Knightville claimed its new identity as a walkable village, one that now has a distinctly good food vibe.
Culinary businesses are the lifeblood of this neighborhood, giving tourists and locals a slower-paced alternative to Portland. Each establishment, in its own way, invites passersby inside to warm up on a cold winter’s day.
The 35-seat Café Louis (173 Ocean Street), which opened in 2021, serves Costa Rican and Caribbean fare for brunch and dinner. Owner Evan Richardson appreciates the pace of restaurant life here. “South Portland lets you sleep a little more at night,” he says. Café Louis is open all winter and is planning special menus for New Year’s Eve and Valentine’s Day.
Moving on down the road, you’ll find Judy Gibson (171A Ocean Street), a cozy 30-seat place named for chef Chris Wilcox’s grandmothers and named as the Portland Press Herald’s Best New Restaurant in 2021. Seasonal menus include smoked Bangs Island Mussels escabeche, soft poached eggs with buckwheat grits, and butterscotch pudding. This winter Wilcox will host regular wine dinners, occasional guest chefs, and a special Christmas menu.
Right next door is SoPo Seafood (171B Ocean Street), a fish market and raw bar. Since 2021, its focus has been on Maine-harvested seafood. Co-owner Lucas Myers has lived in South Portland for 20 years and says it’s a dream come true to be running his business in Knightville. “It’s a very comfortable place to be right now,” says Myers. Stop in this winter to slurp Maine oysters on the half shell, source seafood for a Christmas Eve feast, or take a free oyster-shucking class.
For a taste of the holidays Italian style, duck into Solo Cucina Market (161 Ocean Street) for a quick espresso at the bar, Italian specialty items, house-made pastries like sugar-dusted pandoro, breads (including panettone), pasta (pink for Valentine’s Day), and cuts of meat from the butcher. Co-owner and chef Mercedes Laboa says she and her partners also stock essential everyday products. “Really, you don’t have to leave South Portland,” she says.
If you need a snack as you stroll, stop at BenReuben’s Knishery (145 Ocean Street), opened two years ago by Graeme Miller to bring new life to his family’s old recipes, like sweet potato knishes and Great-Aunt Pearl’s rugelach, with seasonal ingredients from Maine. In addition to regular BenReuben, everything, and cheese knishes, Miller makes potato latke and sufganiyah (Jewish jelly doughnut) kits for customers to take home for the holidays.
Verbena (103 Ocean Street) is considered the grande dame of the Knightville restaurant scene. Owner Melissa Coriaty has made sustainably sourced lunch and brunch menu items since 2009. Verbena even survived the summer of 2010 when Ocean Street was dug up and put back together as a pedestrian-friendly street. Check Verbena’s social media for information about its winter dinner series.
CIA Café (72 Ocean Street) has been on this strip since 2013. A lively community café, CIA (which stands for Coffee, Ice cream, Art) promotes local bakers, makers, and artists. Here you can shop while you nosh.
The family-run traditional Mexican restaurant Taco Trio (60 Ocean Street) has been in Knightville for 12 years. The popular spot has occupied its current large, color-splashed open space, complete with a gorgeous tequila bar, since 2021. Its authentic tacos are some of the best in southern Maine.
Finally, those who walk the length of Ocean Street can enjoy Foulmouthed Brewing (15 Ocean Street), a kid-friendly brewpub housed in an old auto garage. The kitchen serves modern, seasonal comfort food that pairs well with the beer brewed there. Owners Julia and Craig Dilger host a makers market at Christmas and offer chocolate and beer pairings throughout the winter.
Municipal parking is reasonably available on and around Ocean Street, but be aware of the city’s winter parking ban that spans from midnight to 5 a.m.
