The 12 days of Christmas, in Christian theology, run between Christ’s birth and the Magi’s arrival. Some who celebrate these 12 days give gifts to loved ones on each day, with one gift representing good tidings for every month of the new year.
The carol we know by the same name, historians believe, was originally designed in the 18th century as a “memory and forfeits” game. Singers would test their recall of the lyrics. They had to award opponents with a “forfeit”—a kiss, gift, or a favor of some kind—if they made a mistake in recalling the procession of gifts.
Image by Clayton Simoncic
Whether you’re spending the 12 days of Christmas waiting for the wise men to arrive, giving gifts to make wishes for the coming months, or forgetting the words to the tune that is getting stuck in your head as you read this, you’ll want to have good things to eat and drink while doing so. We’ve asked Jill Dutton and Vincent Maniaci, owners of The Cheese Iron, a cheesemonger and specialty foods spot in Scarborough, to make a list of decadent things especially well-suited for the holiday season. Whether or not you put this list to the tune in question is entirely up to you.
On the first day of Christmas, get yourself some Colston Basset Stilton cheese. Dutton and Maniaci recommend this traditional cheese made in southeastern Nottinghamshire, England, using an age-old technique of hand-ladling the curds into molds. Stilton is typically served with a ruby port and ripe pears around the holidays. Dutton and Maniaci also like to eat this creamy, grassy, woodsy, salty cheese with dates and walnuts.
Image by Clayton Simoncic
On the second day of Christmas, be amazed by the hue of Shropshire Blue. Also from Nottinghamshire and made in the Stilton style, this cheese is dyed orange with annatto. It has a rich and spicy flavor and a smooth fudgy texture. The couple suggests pairing it with a bright bubbly wine like Scagliola Moscato d’Asti.
On the third day of Christmas, use aged Schlossberger Alt for fondue. This 16-month aged alpine cheese from Switzerland is made during the winter months and aged deep in the valley of Emmental next to the ruins of Schlossberg Castle. Buttery and loaded with notes of tropical fruit and crushed hazelnuts, it’s one of Dutton and Maniaci’s go-to fondue cheeses.
On the fourth day of Christmas, serve your love some Montgomery’s cheddar. This raw-milk farmhouse cheese from Somerset is as true an English cheddar as there is. Made by hand and formed into 60-pound, clothbound wheels, it is rich, earthy, buttery, and fruity. Dutton and Maniaci suggest serving it with Quince and Apple Company’s Pear Mostarda.
Image by Clayton Simoncic
On the fifth day of Christmas, my friends shared with me, Aarewasser! Semi-firm and washed with the water of the spring-fed Aare River near Interlaken, this Swiss alpine cheese has a rich, savory flavor. Its springy, supple texture means that it melts and caramelizes perfectly.
On the sixth day of Christmas, serve a schmear of cherry chai jam on ricotta. Dutton and Maniaci say this bright red preserve from Brooklyn-based Brins pairs well with whole-milk ricotta cheese, homemade crostini, and a bottle of Birichino Grenache from the central coast of California.
Image by Clayton Simoncic
On the seventh day of Christmas, give interesting, sweet things to your closest friends. Whether you want to serve them cheese, afternoon tea (the couple suggests Ajiri Kenyan black tea), or an evening cocktail, The Cheese Iron carries a variety of sweet accoutrements. Dutton and Maniaci’s favorites include Gilda’s artisan biscotti, sugared Marcona almond tortas from Mitica, and Fabbri Amarena cherries, candied ginger, or strawberries in syrup.
On the eighth day of Christmas, don’t forget to slice the panettone. Italian company Albertengo makes a traditional panettone. The Cheese Iron carries a variety of flavors, and Dutton and Maniaci say most panettone pairs well with a bubbly prosecco or fortified vin santo.
On the ninth day of Christmas, it’s time to pull out the Italian sweeties. Italian candy is a popular Christmas item, say Dutton and Maniaci. Venchi chocolates, hard and soft Italian nougat called torrone, and marzipan fruit and chocolate bars are big sellers during the holidays.
On the tenth day of Christmas, tuck into a Maison de la Truffe brie. To create this indulgence, a rich, earthy French brie is cut horizontally, separated, and stuffed with black truffles and fresh cream. It’s a treat worthy of celebration, so pop a bottle of champagne.
On the eleventh day of Christmas, don’t forget the Jamón Ibérico de Bellota. This ham, made from acorn-fed pigs in Spain, is the finest of all cured meats, say Dutton and Maniaci. Cut into paper-thin slices, the ham melts on your tongue, giving way to sweet, nutty, rich, salty, and creamy flavors.
On the twelfth day of Christmas, be wise and buy a mixed case of bubbly. Dutton and Maniaci suggest the case include Aubry brut and rosé, Laurent-Perrier brut, Delamotte brut, and Ferrari brut—all from the Champagne region of France—and the Balfour 1503 Classic Cuvée sparkling wine from England.
