Travel writer Paul Theroux says MidCoast Maine is one of his top three homes away from his actual homes in Hawaii and on Cape Cod. In a 2011 article in The Atlantic he argued that while the state is a obvious joy summer, “the soul of Maine is more apparent in the winter.” It may be cold, but its hospitable, good-humored, and there is plenty of elbow room.
Long, stormy nights leave snow on the ground. But short, cloudless days see the sun reflecting off ice crystals everywhere. Both the vistas and air are breathtaking, and Mainers embrace wintery conditions by traversing the landscape on foot, skis, fat-tire bikes, and snowmobiles. A food scene pitched to complement these winter wonderland activities has blossomed over time.
As part of the Kennebunkport Christmas Prelude in early December, The Nonantum Resort (nonantumresort.com) hosts its Fire & Ice Soiree. Award-winning food and craft cocktails are served outside amidst cool ice sculptures and warming bonfires. This year’s dates are December 8 and 9, 2023, and general admission tickets cost $75.
In early February, spectators gather at the Camden Snow Bowl (camdensnowbowl.com), a ski area with a 400-foot, gravity-operated wooden chute, to watch festooned tobogganer teams with names like Whiskey on Ice and Frogs on a Log, fly down the shoot at rates up to 40 mph. Attendees are warmed by food truck fare and thirsts are quenched by libations from the local beer garden. The 2024 toboggan championships are set for February 2, 3 and 4. General admission is free.
Since 1826, when the ice on Thompson’s Pond in South Bristol gets thick enough, the community has gathered for the ice harvest. Skilled volunteers use handsaws and
chisel bars to cut the ice and attendees prod floating blocks through a channel and up the conveyor belt into the Thompson Icehouse (thompsonicehouse.com). The cold workers are buoyed by hot beverages, warm soup, and freshly baked treats. Typically held in mid-February, the exact date won’t be set for 2024 until organizers see how the ice formation progresses. When it does happen, the event will be free, but donations do help keep the tradition alive.
The groomed slopes of Maine’s 20 ski resorts have long attracted visitors. Après ski opportunities have evolved to feed the skiers according to culinary trends, though. For example, Sugarloaf Mountain (sugarloaf.com/dining) in Carrabassett Valley operates a suite of fine dining, casual and food court options, but seasonal eateries featuring Swiss raclette, southern BBQ, Asian dumplings, gourmet donuts and good coffee routinely pop-up in the village at the base of the mountain.
Maine breweries in rural settings have become a draw for cross-country skiers, snowshoers, and fat-wheeled bikers. Take the Oxbow Beer Garden (oxbowbeer.com/ location/oxford ) in Oxford, for example. It is an all-in- one taphouse, wood-fired pizzeria, and winter sport destination because it sits adjacent to a free, use-at- your-own-risk network of mixed-use trails. Nordic skis and snowshoes are available to rent on site from the Portland Gear Hub.
If you’re new to outdoor winter sports, L.L. Bean’s Outdoor Discovery Programs (llbeanoutdoors.com/freeport-maine) at its flagship Freeport store offers lessons in cross- country skiing, ski-skating, fat biking, and snowshoeing. Starting at around $30, the lessons run between one to two hours and the price includes use of all necessary gear.
